During
Tet, a number of villages in northern and central Vietnam hold cooking
contests that may sound simple, but follow strict and complex rules:
Cooking in the wind and rain. Tu Trong Village, Thanh Hoa Province, has a
temple dedicated to the 11th century warrior Le Phung Hieu.
During
the temple's week-long festival in the first week of Tet, villagers
hold culinary competitions: cooking ordinary rice in water, steaming
sticky rice and making rice cakes.
Contestants cook in the open air while in
a bamboo boat floating on the village pond. Charcoal, the usual fuel,
is prohibited. Instead, each competitor receives some dried sugar cane,
which burns only with difficulty. The challenge increases if it is windy
and raining. Each contestant must set her rice pot in exactly the right
place to take advantage of the wind and avoid extinguishing the fire.
The competition begins precisely at dawn.
Hundreds of boats are tied up along the pond bank since as many as 200
young women may participate.
After a salvo of drumbeats, competitors
step into their boats, bringing along cooking tripods, rice pots, some
damp straw and fuel. They row to the centre of the pond, make a fire and
wash the rice.
A second salvo of drumbeats sounds,
punctuated by three final beats: the competition starts. The cooking may
be done in one pot after another or by using all pots al the same time.
The tiny, light boat sways with the competitor's every movement;
keeping the craft stable while cooking is like performing a circus act.
The competitor who finishes first wins, but quality also counts. People
from many villages watch from the pond bank and mothers who have trained
their girls for months impatiently wait for the results of their
efforts. Other women take advantage of the occasion to look for
prospective daughters-in-law who are both good cooks and can also face
difficulties with calmness.
Contests for boys and girls:
villagers in Chuong Village of the Ha Tay Province organize similar
competitions separately for boys and girls. Female participants must
cook rice on the ground while simultaneously carrying a six-to
seven-month-old baby from another family on her hip. She must console
the infant when he or she cries. At the same time, she must prevent a
toad from jumping out of a chalk circle drawn around her. The
competition is all the more difficult because the spectators, especially
children, take every opportunity to tease the baby.
The
contest for boys is no less rigorous. Each boy must stand ready with all
the necessary items (rice, water, matches and firewood) on a light boat
moored the pond bank. At a given signal he paddles with his hands to
the opposite bank, where a row of pots is placed on tripods. He must
stay in his unmoored boat while cooking the rice on the bank. The least
loss of balance tosses him over into the water.
In Tich Son Village of Vinh Phuc
Province, a cooking competition takes place on the morning of the fourth
day after Tet. The finished rice must meet particular criteria of taste
and consistency. Contestants use two pots. First they boil the rice in a
copper pot over the fire. Once the water boils, they pour both the rice
and water into an earthen pot and cook the rice over charcoal until
done.